The careers of chef Jenner Tomaska of MICHELIN-Starred Esmé and restaurateurs Scott Weiner and Greg Mohr of the Fifty/50 Group (Kindling, Homestead on the Roof, Professor Pizza) took them in different directions, but they all got their start in steakhouses. The trio has now returned to their roots with the opening of ultra-luxe steakhouse The Alston in Chicago.
“We wanted to take the best parts of Midwest steakhouse culture and merge those with the best parts of MICHELIN culture with plenty of French influences,” Mohr says. “Everywhere you look, there’s a sense of discovery.”
That means a dining room decked out with art on digital screens, roving carts doing tableside service, and rustic, wood-fired cooking. “For me, it was revisiting the past and what we’re known for and reimagining it,” Tomaska says referring to Chicago’s rich history of steakhouses. “It’s taking what we’ve celebrated here in Chicago for such a long time and pushing it into the next 20 years.”
Read on for the scoop on The Alston in Chicago, and book your seat on OpenTable.
What to eat
Kickstart the expansive menu with the tableside housemade bread service with different butters. Then, snack on pomme purée frites, a fun twist on French fries with walnut aioli. Or try the baked Hokkaido scallops topped with spinach, a riff on oysters Rockefeller.
You’ll want to add on the classic lobster bisque or the braised leek with crispy chicken skin—Tomaska excels at soups. Showstopping mains like the shareable 24-ounce bone-in ribeye or the duck a la presse carved tableside are why this is one of the most exciting openings in Chicago.
What to drink
The Alston team worked with renowned master sommelier Ken Fredrickson to craft the extensive wine list that includes 600 labels (and growing). They’re all stored in a temperature-controlled cellar that doubles as an intimate event space. There’s also a deep collection of bourbon and scotch, including the largest French whiskey selection in the city. Treat yourself to a tasting of four French single malt whiskeys paired with imported chocolates.
Where to sit
The Alston is on the third floor of a nearly 1,000-foot-tall skyscraper in River North and offers breathtaking views of Holy Name Cathedral across the street. The Art Deco-inspired dining room is done up in coral banquettes and features large windows that fill the space with a warm, soft glow during the day. Post up there or at the 10-seat bar and swing back around in a few weeks when the restaurant opens its spacious year-round outdoor terrace.
“The Alston has our voice and passion all over it,” Weiner says. “I’m ready to wear suits again,” adds Mohr.
When to go
The Alston is open Sunday to Thursday from 4 pm to 10:30 pm, and until 11 pm on Fridays and Saturdays. Happy hour is weekdays from 3:30 pm to 5:30 pm with $10 to $12 cocktails and bar snacks like escargot with herbed butter. Reservations open daily at 12 am for the next 30 days.
Lisa Shames is a writer focused on travel and food culture in Chicago, IL. She has covered Chicago’s restaurant scene for publications including Eater Chicago, CS, Chicago Tribune, and Time Out and is the US contributor for Sogoodmag.
