Why this Chicago restaurateur says lobster and fries is the perfect meal

Credit: Sandy Noto
a woman dipping potato chips in an aioli at Chicago restaurant John’s Food and Wine

When John’s Food and Wine in Chicago opened in late 2023, the buzz around it wasn’t just focused on the food. Diners order at a counter, like at a fast-casual restaurant—unusual for an elevated spot with a five-course tasting and an a la carte menu. You order more food by asking a staffer and get more drinks through a QR code at the table. And the 20% service charge on your check is divided equally between kitchen and dining-room workers.

It’s why co-chefs and owners Adam McFarland and Tom Rogers have attracted top talent from around the country to work here and why diners tell them their staff is always happy. Plus, the duo’s top-notch cooking—inspired by their time working together at NYC’s legendary Gramercy Tavern—makes Chicagoans keep coming back.

A best new restaurant nod from Chicago Magazine and a glowing review from The Chicago Tribune, means the restaurant still remains as busy as ever. We recently caught up with McFarland on the dish you cannot miss, how to request some off-menu items, and more. “Tom and I are having the time of our lives,” McFarland says. “This is so much fun, and we just can’t wait to keep on trying to figure out the next cool thing to do.”

Read on for how to have the best time at John’s Food and Wine, and book your seat on OpenTable

What’s the one dish that you absolutely cannot miss at your restaurant?

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Don’t leave without the Contramar-inspired lobster salad. | Credit: John’s Food and Wine

McFarland: The lobster salad. It’s been on our menu since we opened. I was in Mexico City with my wife, and we went to Contramar and had the tuna tostada with crispy leeks. After getting back, I was thinking about leeks and seafood. Our lobster salad has a melted leek aioli that has this almost nutty flavor. It’s topped with dill, cilantro, Thai basil, and mint and finished with a fish-sauce vinaigrette.

What dishes would you add on to build a perfect meal from there?

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Ge these beef-fat French fries inspired by McFarland and Rogers’ time at Gramercy Tavern in New York. | Credit: Sandy Noto

All of our pastas are handmade daily. Our team does a really great job of using pasta as a canvas for what’s seasonal. We have a gnocchi dish with zucchini purée, lobster, and chamomile butter. But in the spirit of not giving you two lobster dishes, our beef-fat fries have been a great way to give people what they want, and a way for us to be that American restaurant. Tom and I spent a considerable amount of time cooking at Gramercy Tavern, so we identify with that style of food.

Is there a drink that you would recommend that goes best with this order?

Our wine and cocktail lists change frequently, but bubbles and fries are always a good one. We’ve had food critics in here who have written about us and say our beef-fat fries and lobster salad is their death-row meal. Having it with Champagne makes it perfect.

What’s a pro-tip for a solo diner at your restaurant?

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Post up at the bar if you’re planning to dine solo at John’s Food and Wine. | Credit: John’s Food and Wine

Head to the bar. You can make reservations for the tasting and a la carte menus. You could also walk in. The bar is first come first served, and that’s an area where Tom and I wanted to really make an impact when we were opening this place. My father, John, created this beautiful mirror with an arch behind it. Seeing that bar is special to me and Tom.

And what advice would you give to larger groups?

We have a private dining room with seating for 24. Our executive chef, Carlos Cruz, can curate a menu that works with the needs of our guests.

What’s the most exciting time to visit your restaurant?

The best time would be late October/mid-November. Nearby Lincoln Park is such a great setting for new American food. When the air is crisp and the leaves are changing, the whole experience here seems so romantic to me.

Is there a secret menu item to try?

We do have two menus. The lobster salad is on the tasting menu, but you can order it by asking one of our staff. We’re also R&D[ing] food daily, so we always have a few things up our sleeve. When somebody comes in and they would like to try one of those, we are always ready.

What would you say is the most underrated thing about your restaurant?

Our service style and being able to have the highest paid line cooks and dishwashers in Chicago and have a front-of-the-house team okay with making the same amount of money that they are. It’s cool to have the entire team being taken care of. That’s the foundation behind John’s. When our guests come in and notice how happy the staff is, that’s one of the reasons. That’s something underrated because not always do the guests know that. We’re always trying to find new ways to do things.

Lisa Shames is a writer focused on travel and food culture in Chicago, IL. She has covered Chicago’s restaurant scene for publications including Eater Chicago, CS, Chicago Tribune, and Time Out and is the US contributor for Sogoodmag.

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