Before Nashville became a culinary hotspot, chef Tandy Wilson set his sights on a historic home in the then-quiet Germantown neighborhood. The Italian-influenced City House opened in 2007, paving the way for the culinary boom that soon took place in the area.
Wilson came from a family of food-business professionals, who guided his entry into the culinary arts. Wilson worked in restaurants throughout college—he attended culinary school in Arizona— and worked at Napa Valley’s Tra Vigne (now Charter Oak) for three years. There, he was introduced to and embraced farming and Italian food.
Now, the combination of Italian and Southern flavors, and ingredients sourced from local farms, guide the rotating menu at City House. They’ve earned Wilson eight James Beard Award nominations and the award for Best Chef Southeast in 2016. If you haven’t yet experienced this Nashville staple yet, a trip to Germantown is in order.
While any dish on the seasonal menu is sure to be a knockout, here are five must-try plates at City House right now.
Lettuce, marinated fennel, fennel vinaigrette, orange, olives, pecorino, biscuit bread crumbs
This hyper-seasonal salad blends classic Italian flavors such as fennel and citrus, with an emphasis on using every part of the fruits and vegetables in the salad. Everything from the fennel stems to the fronds and bulbs, or the orange segments and peels, are incorporated in the dish.
“Our farms have a lot of greens this time of year, so we want to highlight them, pump them up with big flavors, and use everything we can,” Wilson says. Vegetables from local farms drive most City House dishes, but Wilson prefers not to use the term farm-to-table: “There’s a big stop in the kitchen.”
Kale, lemon, olive oil, parm, bread crumbs
The inspiration for this dish came from a mid-2000s New York Times story highlighting kale, Wilson says.
“Simplicity is certainly something that we aim to do really well,” Wilson says. “[This salad] is a great product. It’s something we can put flavor on and have a great dish, and it’s a regenerating harvest for farmers.”
When kale leaves are cut properly, they regenerate to support multiple harvests. The salad at City House is a menu staple and features a simple combination of lemon, olive oil, parmesan, and bread crumbs.
Belly ham, mozzarella, oregano, parm, chile pizza
“This is the one that pays the bills,” Wilson says. The pizza is a mainstay and has drawn in regulars to City House for years. Locally sourced belly ham is the star of the show. It is brined, baked, and treated like prosciutto cotto to create a salty and sweet flavor combination.
“It’s all this beautiful, subtle but intense flavor, but it needed a contrast,” Wilson says. The chef drizzles chile oil on top. “It’s just that spark that makes the whole thing sing,” he says.
Wilson says the pizza dough is a science experiment from the heart, noting that City House runs a fun kitchen rooted in creativity. The team has learned to perfect the recipe over the years, often adjusting ingredients to match the seasons, temperature, and humidity that defines summer in the South. The kitchen uses organic, unbleached flour and all meat products are locally raised and pasteurized.
“There are a lot of wholesome, healthful benefits to the food that we serve,” Wilson says. “I really care about what people eat, and I really care that they’re getting good, wholesome food that takes care of our planet.”
Bread gnocchi, cauliflower ragu, parsley, pecorino
Sustainability is a theme that runs through City House, and bread gnocchi made from leftover pizza dough is no exception. The dish is currently paired with cauliflower ragu, a preparation Wilson learned about while visiting family in Capri. The sauce is a sofrito of onion, garlic, chiles, oregano, canned tomatoes, and cauliflower, a warm combination of Italian flavors for colder months. The ragu has made an appearance in multiple formats on the menu over the years, serving as a pizza base, pasta sauce, and even on catfish. The bread gnocchi dish is finished with a dusting of pecorino and is a standout among City House’s rotating pastas.
Fennel sausage, tomato ragu, roasted cabbage, celery leaf salsa verde
City House acquires a half hog from a local farm weekly, so sausage is almost always on the menu. The fennel sausage is made in house and seasoned with fennel seed and black pepper. It’s then roasted in a wood-fired oven and served in tomato ragu.
Cabbage that’s diced up and roasted in the same oven is also part of the dish. “It’s nice and crunchy, bright and vibrant, with a little char to it,” Wilson says.
The chef completes the dish with celery leaf salsa verde, yet another example of the kitchen ensuring that no parts of an ingredient are wasted.
Kellie Walton Benz is a food, drink and travel writer based outside of Nashville. Follow her adventures and eats on Instagram at @kellie.benz.
