Fire has always played an important role at The Dawson—from its wood-burning grill and the smoke-tinged ingredients that come from it to its multiple fireplaces. Even its name nods indirectly to fire: it references the Dawson brothers, who owned a 19th-century fireplace-mantel plant that once stood nearby.
On December 30, 2022, fire defined the beloved neighborhood spot in a way co-owners Billy Lawless and Branko Palikuca never imagined.
“It was pretty scary when I got the call,” Lawless says of the early evening phone call telling him a fire had broken out on the second floor of the restaurant. Soon after, a closed-until-further notice was posted on social media.
Rather than see the fire as a terrible thing, the owners saw an opportunity to give some love to the 10-year-old restaurant that’s part of Gage Hospitality Group (Acanto, The Gage). “I’m Irish, and my glass is always half full if not overflowing,” Lawless says. Three months later, The MICHELIN Bib Gourmand winner has reopened with a refreshed look and new dishes, cocktails, and wine list.
Lawless and Palikuca are relieved that diners are eager to return. “It’s quite upsetting and unsettling when you go dark for three months and don’t know what to expect when you do reopen,” Lawless says. “But you forget sometimes the depth of support people have for you and it has been lovely and humbling to see that.”
Support is also a word that describes the staff at The Dawson, a majority of which returned, including executive chef Francisco Narez.
Narez continues the focus on modern American food infused with international flavors and creative twists.
Some fan favorites remain, including the chicken-fried lobster: Maine lobster tails, shell and all, dredged in buttermilk and flour before a dip in the deep fryer. It’s served with a housemade spicy ranch dressing and pickled banana peppers, offering a balance to the richness of the dish.
A popular shareable dish is the grilled whole fish tacos, which alternates between redfish and striped bass, depending on what’s freshest. Golden habanero salsa adds some heat, while tropical coleslaw adds sweetness. The dish is finished with made-to-order guacamole and tortillas.
Sticky duck wings, another returning signature item, tap into Narez’s Mexican heritage with salsa macha, an earthy, oil-based sauce made with toasted peppers, almonds, sesame seeds, and garlic. The salsa-drenched wings sit on a slice of bread and are topped with pickled ginger, fresh honeycomb, and scallions.
Keeping with his passion for game, Narez pairs braised rabbit with housemade pappardelle and adds Champagne-infused butter sauce, fresh herbs, and a dusting of grana Padano cheese.
Bar manager Kristine Schranz leaned into the restaurant’s recent woe with a new menu of cheekily named cocktails such as Some Like It Hot (a spicy margarita with passionfruit and charred poblano ice).
The Phoenix, a twist on the classic tropical cocktail The Jungle Bird, is set on fire tableside. “It’s a metaphorical nod to the reopening of the restaurant,” Lawless says of the cocktail’s name.
Wine director Torrence O’Haire did a subtle revamp of the wine program with a new emphasis on small farms and independent producers from both classic and unexpected regions, including Napa, Mexicali, and Michigan.
Producers with environmentally responsible practices, worker-supportive initiatives, and minority inclusion are also well-represented on the wine list.
Lawless brought on The Dawson’s original designer, Erin Boone of Boone Interiors, to freshen the two-level restaurant once the space had a thorough post-fire cleaning and all the wood floors were replaced.
Boone was inspired by the area’s industrial past, incorporating reclaimed wood, salvaged brick, and exposed steel.
The Dawson’s expansive patio includes a large fireplace, lush greenery, twinkling string lights, and a structure with an automated louver system to provide protection from the rain.
The Dawson is open Tuesday to Thursday from 4 pm to 10 pm, Friday from 4 pm to 1 am, Saturday from 10:30 am to 1 am, and Sunday from 10:30 am to 9 pm.
Lisa Shames is a writer focused on travel and food culture in Chicago, IL, and is the U.S. contributor for Sogoodmag. Find her on Instagram.
