Your first clue about the creativity and playfulness on display at French bistro Obélix in Chicago is the restaurant’s name. It references the beloved French cartoon character known for his superhuman strength, friendship with Astérix, and love for food. That spirit shines through in the various menus at the restaurant, a James Beard nominee and Eater Chicago’s best new restaurant in 2022.
But while Obélix isn’t afraid to have fun, it’s very serious about the ingredients and techniques behind its takes on French classics. That faithfulness to tradition should come as no surprise given the restaurant is the brainchild of chef-and-somm brothers and James Beard semifinalists Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey, whose parents created the beloved Bucktown French haunt Le Bouchon.
“We try to tap into all the international influences in regard to French food and go beyond the classic things you’d expect at a restaurant of our style,” Obélix executive chef Nathan Kim says. “We want to keep things interesting and ultimately that’s what defines us.” At Obélix, menus change every season, but some items have earned too many loyal fans to be removed.
Read on for three must-try dishes at Obélix in Chicago, and snag your spot on OpenTable for a visit.
A silky, crunchy brunch favorite
Originally created by Antonio Incandela, who now leads the pastry program at sister spot Mariscos San Pedro, the pistachio croissant has been on the menu at Obélix since it opened nearly three years ago. “It started as a St. Patrick’s Day special,” executive pastry chef Courtney Kenyon says. “People went crazy for it, and it became a staple.”
The croissant takes days to make and the striped, crisp laminated dough conceals a luxurious and silky pistachio paste filling. It’s so popular that beyond being a brunch fixture, it’s also available for pick up on weekends as part of the restaurant’s pre-order pastry program.
A classic with a light twist
Like many others on the menu, this dish takes some liberties with the original French recipe. “We lean towards keeping things a little bit lighter,” executive chef Kim says. “High acid and spice are the hallmarks of what we do. We don’t shy away from powerful flavors.”
To that end, Obélix’s version features seared black cod and confit marble potatoes sitting in a sauce meunière made with caramelized butter, parsley, fried capers, and lemon. It’s topped with sautéed spinach and brioche croutons. “There is beauty in simplicity and this dish exemplifies that,” Kim says.
It’s a dinnertime favorite, but you’ll also find it on the three-course lunch prix-fixe. “We are trying to provide value and drive home Obélix’s core concept as a neighborhood restaurant,” Kim says.
An elevated riff on a street-food icon
For his elevated riff on a corn dog, chef de cuisine Sam Handwerger starts with cured duck legs. The meat is then stuffed into sausage casing and smoked while a sweet corn puree and flour make up the crispy exterior. Inspired by Korean corn dogs, Handwerger glazes his with honey and rolls it in corn nuts for added crunch.
The hot dog is then topped with a foie gras mousse, cherry mostarda, and pickled mustard seeds. Sixty-five orders flew out the kitchen in just the first week it was on the menu, cementing its status as a staple.
“Oliver [Poilevey, the chef at Le Bouchon] and I love the theme of fun food and making things that are very humble and connectible,” Handwerger says. “It’s great to be able to share a little piece of Midwest culture and cuisine at Obélix.”
Lisa Shames is a writer focused on travel and food culture in Chicago, IL. She has covered Chicago’s restaurant scene for publications including Eater Chicago, CS, Chicago Tribune, and Time Out and is the US contributor for Sogoodmag.
