Wes Avila has been one of the most exciting chefs working in Los Angeles for several years now, but his new venture MXO Steakhouse is a bold departure from his past cooking. You probably know him for his high-concept tacos spot (Guerrilla Tacos), the flavors of the Yucatan (Ka’Teen), and even some of the most creative and delicious sandwiches in the city (the now-shuttered Angry Egret Dinette).
MXO, on the other hand, is a big, swanky Mexican steakhouse smack-dab in the heart of West Hollywood. A partnership with successful nightlife and restaurant group sbe, MXO has the sleek feel of a resort restaurant (think: natural materials, reclaimed wood, and limestone). And unlike his other restaurants, the focus in the kitchen is on wood-fired cooking and the cuisine of Monterrey and northern Mexico.
“MXO is more cowboy, or vaquero-style cooking than I’ve done in the past,” Avila says. “We do a lot of wood-fired cooking to get that mesquite punch.” One meaty dish, in particular, really emphasizes this style of cooking at the restaurant.
Read on for more on that must-order dish at MXO Steakhouse, and make a booking on OpenTable.
A meaty showstopper
MXO’s menu has a mix of cold seafood like yellowtail ceviche, small plates like Avila’s signature sweet potato taquitos, and larger dishes including a host of premium wood-fired steaks. You’ll definitely want to get a mix of some of those dishes, but no one dining at MXO should miss the birria beef martillo (you need to pre-order it at least 24 hours before your reservation by calling 323-805-0696 or emailing mxola@sbe.com).
It’s a hulking, four-to-six-pound shank of Wagyu beef, which Avila jokingly calls “Thor’s hammer.” The meat is cured for 24 hours in a semi-dry rub with fresh herbs, before it’s rinsed, patted dry, and slow-cooked in the restaurant’s signature birria mix for six-to-eight hours. When the “hammer” is dropped on the table, it’s a sight to behold.
“It’s a very shareable dish,” Avila says. “We suggest you eat it family-style to celebrate community, which is what we’re all about.”
The meat is served alongside radishes, lime, cilantro, and salsas. Avila suggests an order of his house-made flour or corn tortillas for DIY tacos made with the tender, fall-off-the-bone meat.
“It becomes like a jus that sits in the middle of the table, so you’re going to want the tortillas to sop up all that consomme,” Avila says. While you can’t go wrong with any of Avila’s wood-fired meats, this hammer is a real hit.
Karen Palmer is a pizza- and pasta-obsessed food writer based in Los Angeles. She is the former editorial director of Tasting Table, and her work has appeared in Eater, Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, and many other publications. Follow her on Instagram at @karenlpalmer.
