After dark, Bosqe, a stylish flower shop and espresso bar in New York City, empties out. But the lush Chelsea boutique stays unlocked and baristas staff the cafe until nearly midnight. It’s the portal to New York’s latest sushi speakeasy: Sushi by Bou, a nine-seat omakase counter hidden in the back of the shop, opened its doors in early October. Themed like a Prohibition-era bar, this unique sushi spot is the fifth Sushi by Bou edition in the New York City area.
The concept finds its roots in the summer of 2017. Sushi chef David Bouhadana (the chain’s namesake and part-owner) left his position at Sushi Dojo in the East Village to launch an avant-garde and controversial concept: a 30-minute omakase experience at Gansevoort Market, Bouhadana’s attempt to keep costs down and service snappy. Seats were sought after and Sushi by Bou soon expanded to Times Square, NoMad, Columbus Circle, and Jersey City.
“We’re expanding very quickly,”says Richie Romero, Sushi by Bou’s chief hospitality officer, citing additional locations in Chicago, Puerto Rico, and beyond. He’s seen the quirky but approachable concept convert sushi takeout lovers to omakase aficionados. “They like sushi but have never had this experience at the sushi bar,” he says. “People are blown away [by Sushi by Bou], and it gets me really excited.”
In many ways, Sushi by Bou offers omakase for beginners. The selections are crowd pleasers, and at $60 for 12 pieces, it’s a relative bargain compared to similar spots in Manhattan. “Omakase is about trusting the chef,” Romero says.
For efficiency, consistency, and price preservation, the 12-piece sushi menu at Sushi by Bou stays the same at each seating. While traditional omakase is more of a mystery (typically, trusting the chef means diners are surprised by each bite), Sushi by Bou’s more accessible approach means that diners know what’s coming before it’s presented on the plate.
The restaurant’s fish is sourced from various parts of the world, depending on the peak season, explains Romero. The team works closely with a Japanese fishmonger to ensure what’s served is top-quality.
All of Sushi by Bou’s locations focus on high-end sushi varieties, including ikura (salmon roe), toro (fatty funa), sake (salmon), and a signature wagyuni “surf and turf” combo of thinly sliced beef with a lush blob of sea urchin. “You’re getting sushi, and you’re getting an experience,” Romero says.
Those who are still hungry after twelve pieces can add specials by either repeating a favorite item or ordering from an extras menu. The Big Mac, a hefty combo of scallop, wagyu, uni, and toro that can be consumed in a single bite, is Sushi by Bou’s most popular add-on. Other extras include a wagyu and uni hand roll or salmon marinated in hot honey.
Sushi by Bou’s drinks are designed to complement the omakase experience, featuring plenty of imported sakes and Japanese beers. The cocktails also take cues from East Asian flavors such as yuzu, barley tea, and shiso. At the Chelsea location, beverages pay homage to the Roaring Twenties while still channeling Japan; a martini served in a coupe is crafted with a citrusy Japanese gin, for instance.
Each Sushi by Bou has a different theme. “It makes it fun, gives it a story,” Romero says of the various backdrops. In Times Square, Sushi by Bou has glow-in-the-dark neon sushi decor as part of a disco motif; the NoMad edition is dedicated to ’90s hip-hop, complete with a massive art display featuring the rapper The Notorious B.I.G. Sushi by Bou plans to debut outposts in Hoboken, New Jersey, Manhattan’s Flatiron district, and Bayside and Astoria, in Queens, between now and April.
In Chelsea, the sliver of a room is decked with several cocktail tables, plus a slim sushi bar where bumping elbows is part of the experience. Art Deco-inspired chandeliers illuminate the otherwise dim space; velvet curtains and long strands of beads separate the speakeasy from the cafe up front.
Sushi by Bou’s newest Manhattan location offers 30-minute seatings on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 5 pm to 11 pm, Fridays and Saturdays from 5 pm to midnight, and Sundays from 5 pm to 11 pm. Diners are welcome to arrive early and stay late for drinks at the bar or the lounge area. Bosqe also offers after-hours coffee cocktails until 11 pm each night.
Melissa Kravitz Hoeffner is a writer based in Brooklyn, where she lives with her wife and rescue dog. You can follow her on Instagram @melissabethk and Twitter @melissabethk
