Sam Sifton, NY Times Review
There are two remarkable things going on at Ciano.
The first is Mr. Gallante’s food, which is ambitious, beautiful and flavor packed, a kind of Italian home cooking made grand and attractive, rich as Berlusconi, not as oily. It is less precious,… less purposefully fancy, less aggressively upscale than what he was putting forth at Cru.
For the second remarkable thing about Ciano, named for the Tuscan hill town Montepulciano, is its wine list and, as important, the manner in which its grapes are served.
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